This molecule turns back time

What are peptides in cosmetics?

Peptides in cosmetics are small molecules made from amino acids, the building blocks of proteins. They act like „Mini-Proteine" and are essential for many biological processes.

In skincare, peptides are known for potential anti-ageing effects: they can stimulate collagen production, firm the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. They may also have anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

There are different types of peptides used in cosmetics, including signal peptides that stimulate skin cells, neuropeptides that relax muscles, and transport peptides that deliver nutrients to skin cells.

However, their efficacy in skincare is not yet fully proven, as peptides must cross the skin barrier to exert their effects. This barrier protects the skin from harmful substances and can also prevent peptides from penetrating into deeper skin layers.

Despite the challenges related to peptide action in cosmetics, scientific studies show promising results and peptides are considered valuable ingredients in skincare products. It is important to keep realistic expectations, as results are often not comparable to those of cosmetic procedures. Nonetheless, peptides can help improve skin appearance by strengthening skin structure and providing hydration.

Which peptides are known in the anti-ageing field?

In the anti-ageing field, some peptides are particularly well known and valued for their specific actions.

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (also known as Matrixyl) stimulates collagen production in the skin and helps reduce wrinkles. It is particularly effective at smoothing fine lines and improving skin texture.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (known as Argireline) acts as a neurotransmitter inhibitor and can reduce muscle contractions that lead to expression lines. It is often seen as a gentler alternative to Botox, as it helps smooth fine lines.

Diaminobutyroylbenzylamid-Diacetate, sometimes called the "snake venom peptide", relaxes facial muscles and reduces wrinkle depth.

The combination of Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (Matrixyl 3000) also promotes collagen synthesis and aids tissue repair, making the skin look younger and firmer.

These peptides are included in many anti-ageing products and are valued for their ability to improve skin texture and soften the appearance of wrinkles. Their effectiveness depends heavily on the concentration and formulation of the product, so choosing high-quality products is important.

What are the benefits of peptides for skincare?

Peptides have established themselves in skincare due to their varied benefits. One of the main advantages is their ability to support natural regeneration processes, contributing to a healthy, youthful appearance. They target specific skin concerns such as wrinkles and pigmentation by improving skin structure and evening out skin tone.

Another benefit is hydration. Peptides help hydrate the skin from within, making it look more radiant and plump. In addition, they strengthen the skin barrier, which is important to defend against environmental damage and to retain moisture in the skin.

Since peptides are natural components of the body, they are generally well tolerated and rarely cause allergic reactions or side effects. This makes them a suitable choice for many skin types, including sensitive skin.

Can peptides penetrate the skin?

The ability of peptides to penetrate the skin is an important topic in cosmetics. In general, peptides are molecules that, due to their size and structure, do not always easily cross the skin barrier. The skin effectively protects itself from external influences and only a few substances penetrate deeply enough to exert their full effect.

To allow peptides to act in deeper skin layers, they are often embedded in specialised delivery systems such as liposomes. These systems help shuttle peptides through the skin barrier and target them to the desired layers. Depending on how these systems are used in products, effectiveness can vary.

Some studies and experts note that the efficacy of peptides depends greatly on their formulation and whether they can penetrate deeply enough to deliver anti-ageing benefits. Further research is therefore needed to optimise the conditions under which peptides can work effectively.

Can I combine collagen peptides with other active ingredients?

Yes, they work very well with other active ingredients to maximise their effects. A particularly recommended combination is with antioxidant ingredients like vitamin C or vitamin E, as these additionally protect the skin from environmental damage and contribute to firmness. For example, vitamin C promotes collagen production and protects the skin from oxidative stress caused by UV radiation and pollution.

Hyaluronic acid is also an ideal partner for collagen peptides. Hyaluron acts as an intense hydrator and makes the skin appear plumper and fresher. Applied especially in the morning, this combination can keep the skin hydrated throughout the day and give it a healthy glow.

Are there contraindications for using peptide-based skincare?

Peptide-based skincare products are generally very well tolerated and have no known contraindications. Because peptides often resemble protein fragments already present in the body, the risk of side effects is low. Therefore, these products can generally be used safely by pregnant and breastfeeding women. In addition, peptides are typically used at low concentrations in cosmetic formulations, which preserves their biological functions while further minimising the risk of unwanted reactions.

Peptides in skincare: how to use them correctly

• Combine peptides with antioxidants. They pair well with antioxidant actives such as vitamin C or E. This combination provides additional protection against environmental damage and strengthens skin structure.
• Store peptide products correctly. As peptides are sensitive to light and oxygen, keep peptide-containing products cool and protected from light to preserve their efficacy.
• Integrate peptides into your morning routine. They can be used both morning and evening. They are particularly effective in the morning as they help keep the skin hydrated throughout the day.
• Care for the eye area. Peptides are excellent for the delicate eye area. They help reduce puffiness, dark circles and swelling, while smoothing fine lines.
• Support mature skin. Use peptides to stimulate collagen production and reduce wrinkles, especially on mature skin​.
• Combine peptides with hyaluronic acid. They work particularly well in combination with hyaluronic acid, which provides intensive hydration and plumps the skin.
• Pay attention to application order. Apply peptide serums after cleansing and before rich creams or oils for best results.
• Avoid using peptides and strong acids together. Do not use peptides at the same time as strongly acidic products, as these could impair peptide effectiveness​.
• For lasting results, use peptide products regularly, as effects may diminish if use is interrupted.
• Use peptides to increase skin moisture levels and care for dry skin.
• If you seek a gentle alternative to Botox, peptides might be an option, as they also offer smoothing effects – though not as intense as Botox.
• Do not use peptides together with products that have a very low pH, as this may reduce their efficacy.

Peptides in cosmetics play a key role in promoting skin regeneration and anti-ageing effects. They offer an effective way to improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Regular use of peptide-containing products can lead to visibly healthier, firmer epidermis.