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Urea

The secret weapon against dry skin

What was once considered a mere metabolic end product has long since found its firm place in modern medicine and cosmetics: urea. This natural moisturiser, especially popular in skin creams, is one of the oldest active ingredients used for dry skin. What is special about this substance and how is it used?

What is urea (Urea)?

Urea, also called Urea, is the end product of protein metabolism in the body. It is formed in the so-called urea cycle and is mainly excreted in the urine. Urea is also deposited in the upper layers of the skin and is therefore a natural component of the epidermis

The outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum, protects the skin and prevents water loss from within. Urea plays a significant role in this water storage function. There it helps strengthen the skin's protective barrier and regulate moisture balance. It is no coincidence that urea is counted among the „Natural Moisturizing Factors” that naturally hydrate our skin. Therefore, urea-containing skincare products can protect the skin from dryness, roughness, tightness and irritation and help restore a weakened skin barrier. 

editorial.facts

  • Urea-containing cosmetics help cells bind to each other. As a result, the skin is moisturised not only from the outside but also from the inside.
  • In the past, urea was obtained from horse urine, but since 1828 urea has been produced in the laboratory. Modern urea creams therefore no longer contain urine but a synthetic form of this substance.
  • Normally, up to seven percent urea is present in the outermost layer of the skin. However, this proportion is considerably lower when the skin is dry. In people with atopic dermatitis, the amount of urea in the outermost layer of the skin is reduced by about 70%. In eczema it is even 85% less, which makes the skin itchy, dry and cracked.
  • In addition to its use in skincare, urea is used in agriculture as a nitrogen fertiliser. Urea resins can also be part of some adhesives.

Why is using urea in skincare products sensible?

Since the skin already contains urea, it theoretically does not require an additional supply of this substance. However, certain soaps and shampoos can disturb the pH balance of the skin barrier. The natural ageing process also reduces the urea content of the skin. Conditions such as atopic dermatitis can further damage the skin's acid mantle. 

When the proportion of urea in the skin decreases, the skin's natural protection also diminishes. This is where urea as an ingredient in skincare products comes into play to successfully plug this 'leak' and replenish urea levels. As a result, harmful substances and pathogens are kept at bay and the skin's suppleness is maintained. In addition, urea has soothing, antimicrobial, anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties.

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How does urea support the action of medications for skin conditions?

Urea supports the penetration of medications into the skin and thus helps enhance their effectiveness in treating skin diseases and infections. 

For example, this allows active ingredients such as corticosteroids to penetrate the skin more effectively and act more quickly. At the same time, the natural skin barrier and infection defence are reinforced.

What effects does urea have on skin structure and appearance?

Urea acts keratolytically. It helps remove dead skin cells and renew the upper layers of the skin. As a result, the complexion appears healthier and fine lines are smoothed. 

Due to the moisturising effect of urea, dehydration lines are reduced and the skin quickly appears firmer. However, a higher concentration of urea in a product is required to achieve a peeling effect.

For which skin problems is urea helpful?

The urea content in skincare products can range between 2% and 40%. Depending on specific skin needs or the skin condition being treated, a low- or high-dose urea product can be chosen. 

Urea is used for dry skin, atopic dermatitis, contact and radiation dermatitis, ichthyosis, foot and nail fungus, itching, ingrown nails, calluses and corns. 

Unlike other moisturising substances such as oils, which act quickly but only temporarily, urea binds moisture in the skin on a lasting basis. In addition, the substance is very skin-friendly and well tolerated, as it is a natural component of the skin. No side effects or allergies have been reported to date. 

How urea-containing products can help your skin: key usage tips

  • Even with its remarkable effects, urea cannot repair dry skin after a single application. Urea-containing skincare products should therefore be used regularly. A face cream with urea is excellent for dry facial skin and should ideally be applied morning and evening after cleansing.
  • The use of urea facial care not only provides intensive skin care but can also serve as a base for make-up. The urea contained smooths the skin and achieves an even complexion.
  • For particularly dry body skin, it is advisable to use a body lotion with urea daily; otherwise, application about three times a week is sufficient.
  • Hand creams with urea are especially popular in the cold season and help keep hands soft and supple.
  • The combination of urea with ceramides or hyaluronic acid is particularly suitable for smoothing dehydration lines and lightly plumping mature skin, especially when the skin is not optimally hydrated.
  • On oily skin, urea can promote the dissolution of hyperkeratosis so that sebum can flow more freely. This can help prevent the formation of new pimples. The antibacterial and anti-itching effect of urea in acne and impure skin has also proven effective.
  • Skincare products with a urea content of less than 10% primarily serve to moisturise normal to dry skin. For example, body lotions and face creams usually contain between 3% and 5% urea. A urea cream with a concentration of 5% to 10% helps against dry skin and prevents drying out. Intensive care products for very dry skin such as foot creams contain at least 10% urea.
  • At an active ingredient concentration of at least 10%, the peeling effect begins. Products with this concentration can help against calluses on the feet or extremely rough areas on the hands or elbows. The intensely moisturising and descaling effect of creams with 10% urea is particularly suitable for calluses and cracked heels.
  • Highly concentrated urea products with more than 20% active ingredient have a strong peeling effect. They can be helpful, for example, in the treatment of nail fungus and for softening thick nails. The reason is that nails are made of keratin, which is broken down by urea.
  • Ointments with a higher concentration of urea are effective against itching and at the same time very well tolerated, so they can be used even on particularly sensitive skin.
  • There are also urea products for the treatment of psoriasis and atopic dermatitis. However, it is important to seek medical advice before using highly concentrated urea products for skin or hair, as too much urea, despite its benefits, can also be harmful.
  • Urea shampoos are a recommended solution for problems caused by itching and dandruff on the scalp. In these shampoos, urea helps moisturise the scalp, which prevents dandruff formation.
  • A urea cream is very mild but should never be applied to open wounds or weeping eczema. This can lead to side effects such as an unpleasant burning sensation.

By using urea-containing skincare products you do something good for your skin: you restore the moisture balance of the skin barrier and quickly create a relaxed and healthy skin feeling!