The formula for radiant skin

What does salicylic acid do to the skin?

Salicylic acid is a remarkable active ingredient, highly valued in skincare and dermatology for its versatile properties. When applied topically, it primarily shows keratolytic (horny layer–dissolving) and anti-inflammatory effects.

This means it helps break down the bonds between horny cells, promoting the skin's natural shedding and enabling gentle cleansing and renewal of the upper skin layers. Its ability to penetrate deeper into the skin than many other acids makes it particularly effective for treating blemishes and keratinisation disorders such as acne and psoriasis.

Furthermore, salicylic acid has pain-relieving effects and can significantly ease discomfort associated with inflammatory skin conditions. It acts antimicrobial against various bacteria and fungi commonly linked to skin problems, supporting skin health on multiple levels.

Through its complex actions on cells and the skin microbiome, salicylic acid not only improves skin appearance but also promotes overall skin regeneration.

Which skin type is salicylic acid suitable for?

It is especially suitable for oily and blemish-prone skin. Its deep-acting, peeling properties help clear pores of excess sebum and dead skin cells, reducing the formation of blackheads and pimples. In addition, it has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial capabilities that target facial blemishes and impurities.

People with acne-prone skin also benefit from salicylic acid, as it inhibits acne bacteria growth and soothes inflammation. Caution is advised for those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to start with lower-concentration products to avoid irritation.

Is salicylic acid photosensitising?

Unlike other acids such as glycolic or lactic acid, salicylic acid has been shown in several studies to have no photosensitising effects. Research indicates that its use does not increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation. Morning application of salicylic acid is therefore considered safe.

In fact, it may even have a photoprotective effect. Its absorption maximum in the UVB range is around 305–310 nm, suggesting it can absorb UV energy. Two clinical studies also showed that applying salicylic acid shortly before UV exposure can reduce the risk of sunburn. This effect may be due to the benzene core of salicylic acid absorbing UV energy and converting it into less harmful heat.

However, note that an effective "sunscreen" effect would require a relatively high concentration of salicylic acid (above 2 %). Such high concentrations can cause excessive peeling and irritation with frequent use. For this reason, it is recommended to use an appropriate sunscreen after applying salicylic acid products, even though no special precautions are generally required.

Which active ingredients can be combined with salicylic acid?

Combining it with other active ingredients can significantly improve your skincare effectiveness.

Vitamin C is known for its antioxidant properties and role in supporting skin defences. Used together, they can support skin health and help relieve conditions like psoriasis. Products that contain both ingredients contribute to an even, radiant complexion and reduce visible signs of ageing.

Retinol, another popular skincare ingredient, promotes skin regeneration and supports collagen production. It makes sense to apply retinol after using salicylic acid to help maintain skin moisture. For sensitive skin, however, it is important to introduce this combination slowly. A patch test can help avoid unwanted reactions.

Glycolic acid is often used in peels to remove dead skin cells. Its keratolytic strength complements salicylic acid's action. On dry skin, ensure adequate moisturisation, as using both actives at the same time can lead to dryness.

Aloe vera naturally contains salicylic acid and also offers anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Aloe vera–based products are therefore excellent companions in cosmetics, especially for sensitive or inflamed skin.

Zinc and salicylic acid are particularly effective for acne-prone skin. Zinc promotes wound healing and has antibacterial properties that enhance salicylic acid's cleansing effect. Creams containing salicylic acid often include zinc compounds that can improve the appearance of dry skin.

What side effects can salicylic acid have?

Using salicylic acid can produce various side effects that depend on individual skin reactions. The most common side effects are redness and increased sensitivity. After application, the skin may be slightly red and feel more sensitive, particularly on sensitive skin or at higher acid concentrations.

Another possible issue is flaking. Salicylic acid has an exfoliating effect and removes dead skin cells, which can sometimes lead to temporary peeling. Dryness is also common, as salicylic acid can affect the skin's natural oils, resulting in tightness and dryness.

Although generally well tolerated, some people can experience allergic reactions. Therefore, it is important to perform a patch test before using a new product. Apply a small amount on an inconspicuous area to check tolerance. If strong redness, burning or itching occur during or after application, stop use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

Is salicylic acid an endocrine disruptor?

Generally, it is not considered an endocrine disruptor. It is known as a beta-hydroxy acid and is commonly used in cosmetic products, especially for treating facial blemishes. Although salicylic acid appears on the consolidated list of substances with potential endocrine activity, it has been placed in group B, indicating low priority.

This classification is based on the fact that salicylic acid has not yet been assessed under REACH and that no significant health concerns have been raised.

Some studies raise concerns about skin absorption and possible hormonal effects at high doses, but the scientific community is largely divided on the risks. Potential effects strongly depend on concentration and frequency of use.

According to the opinion of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), salicylic acid remains listed in Annex III with a maximum concentration of 3 % for rinse-off hair treatments and 2 % for other preparations. For body lotions, eyeshadows, mascaras, eyeliners, lipsticks and roll-on deodorants, the maximum concentration is 0.5 %.

How well does salicylic acid work against warts?

It is an effective remedy for treating warts. Solutions are applied several times a day over several weeks to the affected area. The solutions form a thin film on the wart which should be removed before the next treatment. It is often recommended to carefully remove the top layer of the wart to maximise the effect of salicylic acid.

Studies show that about 39 out of 100 people using salicylic acid have no warts after 3 to 6 months.

Salicylic acid is well tolerated by most users, though mild skin irritation can occur. Occasionally the skin may discolour or become painful, and removing the top layer of the wart can cause pain or bleeding. Overall, this acid is a tried and effective means of treating warts.

Salicylic acid: how to use it correctly

• Use 1 % salicylic acid to treat mild acne by applying the solution to the affected areas. Apply once or twice daily after thoroughly cleansing the skin. This clears the pores and prevents pimples from developing further.
• Salicylic acid should not be used on infants and children under 4 years of age. The sensitive skin of this age group may become irritated and show adverse reactions. Wait until the child is older before considering such treatments.
• When using salicylic acid, do not exceed the maximum daily dose of 2 g for adults. Overdose can lead to skin irritation and damage. Always follow instructions and consult your physician if in doubt.
• To protect surrounding healthy skin, cover it during treatment with zinc paste or petroleum jelly. This prevents salicylic acid from spreading to healthy areas and avoids irritation or unwanted effects on untreated skin.
• If you suffer from scalp psoriasis, you may use a 10 % salicylic acid solution one to two times weekly on the dry scalp. The acid's keratolytic action loosens scales and makes it easier to use additional care products.
• Leave the salicylic acid solution on the scalp for at least 10 minutes before rinsing. For thicker scales and crusting, the contact time may be increased to up to 30 minutes. This maximises the keratolytic effect and assists in scale removal.
• A continuous treatment with salicylic acid for at least 3 to 4 weeks is needed to achieve visible improvements in scalp conditions. Regular application helps remove stubborn scales and improve scalp condition.
• During pregnancy, salicylic acid should be applied only to small skin areas (less than 5 cm²). Larger areas may influence uterine activity and increase bleeding tendency. Always consult your doctor before using salicylic acid during pregnancy.
• If you are breastfeeding, you may continue to use salicylic acid to treat acne, but only topically and without bringing the product near the infant. Ensure the infant does not come into contact with treated areas to avoid exposure.
• For removal of calluses or corns, regular application of salicylic acid is essential. Apply the solution daily to the affected areas to continuously break down dead cells. This keeps the skin soft and supple.
• When using salicylic acid on children, pay special attention to dosing. In children under 12 years, the maximum daily dose of 0.2 g salicylic acid must not be exceeded. Also avoid treating multiple areas simultaneously.
• After successful treatment with salicylic acid, it is advisable to continue applications at longer intervals (once weekly or every 14 days). This helps prevent recurrence and maintains treatment success.

Salicylic acid is a versatile ingredient that gently peels the skin, reduces inflammation and helps prevent blemishes. Regular use promotes skin renewal and yields a more even complexion, making it an important component of skincare.